Day 4 - The Train to Stirling

Day 4 started with packing what we needed for the trip onward.  Then a short taxi ride to catch the Train to Stirling.

The Train to Stirling on ScotRail took less than an hour stopping in a half dozen small communities along the way.

We arrived early afternoon and were welcomed by the rains of Scotland. A short taxi ride took us to our accommodation, the Portcullis, owned by our wonderful hosts, Lynn and Jim Walker.

The Portcullis enjoys many years of tradition. It is located right beside Stirling Castle Esplanade at "The Top of the Town"  Built in 1787, its original purpose in life was to serve the community as a school for boys.  It stands on the site of the previous school, which was demolished when larger premises were required.  Indeed within the former building, King James VI of Scotland was educated - more than five centuries ago.

When the school again required larger premises and moved further down the road, the building was used by the Argyll & Sutherland Highlanders as a Military Store when the Army was based at Stirling Castle. In subsequent years after the army left the Castle, the property became a Hotel and that is how it remains today.

With the rain being what it was we decided to enjoy the pub, it's patrons, a discussion of the referendum, etc... We never moved for the rest of the afternoon and evening.

Oh, we did go outside to catch the night air and get this pic.

Needless to say, we sleep like the proverbial lambs that night, oh well, many adventures ahead tomorrow.

Day 3 - A Tour of Edinburgh

Day 3 was a walk to Edinburgh Castle, stopping along the way at notable landmarks.

We found quite by accident, the monument to Greyfriars Bobby.

Greyfriars Bobby was a Skye Terrier who became known in 19th-century Edinburgh for supposedly spending 14 years guarding the grave of his owner until he died himself on 14 January 1872. The story continues to be well known in Edinburgh, through several books and films, and a prominent commemorative statue and nearby graves act as a tourist attraction.

Continuing on to Edinburgh Castle we come onto the Royal Mile. This picture is looking from the Castle.

The Royal Mile (Scots: Ryal Mile) is the name given to a succession of streets forming the main thoroughfare of the Old Town of the city of Edinburgh in Scotland. The name was first used in W M Gilbert's Edinburgh in the Nineteenth Century (1901), and was further popularised as the title of a guidebook, published in 1920. The thoroughfare, as the name suggests, is approximately one Scots mile long and runs downhill between two significant locations in the history of Scotland, namely Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace. The Royal Mile is the busiest tourist street in the Old Town, rivaled only by Princes Street in the New Town.

On the Royal Mile we first come across a sign depicting Deacon Brodie.

William Brodie (1741 – 1788), more commonly known by his prestigious title of Deacon Brodie, was a Scottish cabinet-maker, deacon of a trades guild and Edinburgh city councillor, who maintained a secret life as a burglar, partly for the thrill, and partly to fund his gambling.

By day, Brodie was a respectable tradesman and Deacon (president) of the Incorporation of Wrights, the head of the Craft of Cabinetmaking, which made him a member of the Town Council. Part of his job in building cabinets was to install and repair their locks and other security mechanisms and repair door locks. He socialised with the gentry of Edinburgh, and met the poet Robert Burns and the painter Sir Henry Raeburn. He was also a member of The Edinburgh Cape Club, and known as Sir Llyud.

At night, however, Brodie became a burglar and thief. He used his daytime job as a way to gain knowledge about the security mechanisms of his clients and to copy their keys using wax impressions. As the foremost wright of the city, Brodie was asked to work in the homes of many of the richest members of Edinburgh society. He used the illicit money to maintain his second life, which included a gambling habit and five children to two mistresses (who did not know of each other, and were unknown in the city). He reputedly began his criminal career around 1768 when he copied keys to a bank door and stole £800. In 1786 he recruited a gang of three thieves, John Brown (a thief escaping a seven-year sentence of transportation), George Smith (a locksmith, who ran a grocer's shop in the Cowgate) and Andrew Ainslie (a shoemaker).

The case that led to Brodie's downfall began later in 1788 when he organised an armed raid on an Excise office in Chessel's Court on The Canongate. Brodie's plan failed. On the same night, Brown approached the authorities to claim a King's Pardon, which had been offered after a previous robbery, and gave up the names of Smith and Ainslie (initially saying nothing of Brodie's involvement). Smith and Ainslie were arrested and the next day Brodie attempted to visit them in prison but was refused. Realising that he had to leave Edinburgh, Brodie escaped to London and then to the Netherlands intending to flee to the United States but was arrested in Amsterdam and shipped back to Edinburgh for trial.

The trial of Brodie and Smith started on 27 August 1788. At first there was no hard evidence against Brodie, although the tools of his criminal trade (copied keys, a disguise and pistols) were found in his house and workshops. But with Brown's evidence and Ainslie being persuaded to turn King's Evidence, added to the self-incriminating lines in the letters he had written while on the run, the jury found Brodie and Smith guilty.

Brodie and Smith were hanged at the Tolbooth Prison in the High Street on 1 October 1788, before a crowd of 40,000. According to one tale, Brodie wore a steel collar and silver tube to prevent the hanging from being fatal. It was said that he had bribed the hangman to ignore it and arranged for his body to be removed quickly in the hope that he could later be revived. If so, the plan failed. Brodie was buried in an unmarked grave at the Buccleuch Church in Chapel Street. The ground is now covered by a car park behind university lecture-halls. However, rumours of his being seen in Paris circulated later and gave the story of his scheme to evade death further publicity.

Leaving Deacon Brodiw we head up the Royal Mile towards Edinburgh Castle, coming on to the Esplanade we find the the Witch's Well. A well hidden monument to the misery suffered by mostly women, deemed to be witches and murdered in most horrific fashion.

As visitors flock past the small fountain on the esplanade of Edinburgh Castle, many admire the beautiful flowers that are blooming in the well. But those who examine the site more carefully will see there is nothing beautiful or fragrant about the act the cast iron wall fountain commemorates. It marks the place where more than 300 people were burned at the stake after being accused of being witches. Many more were drowned by being “douked” nearby in the Nor’ Loch, where Princes Street Gardens now lie.

Despite its small population, Scotland holds the reputation of having been Europe’s biggest persecutor of witches.

Across the 17th and 18th centuries, it is known more than 3800 suspected witches were strangled, hanged, drowned or burned at the stake. The first major Scottish witch trials took place in 1590, presided over by King James VI. The last Scottish woman to face trial for witchcraft was jailed for her crime as recently as 1944. Researchers at Edinburgh University have used historical records to put together The Survey of Scottish Witchcraft and witch hunting in Scotland. The survey reveals the names of almost all the 3837 people they know were killed after being accused of being a witch between 1563 and 1736.

Across the Esplanade, we see the entrance to Edinburgh Castle.

Edinburgh Castle is a historic fortress which dominates the skyline of the city of Edinburgh, Scotland from its position on the Castle Rock. Archaeologists have established human occupation of the rock since at least the Iron Age (2nd century AD), although the nature of the early settlement is unclear. There has been a royal castle on the rock since at least the reign of David I in the 12th century, and the site continued to be a royal residence until the Union of the Crowns in 1603.

From the 15th century the castle's residential role declined, and by the 17th century it was principally used as military barracks with a large garrison. Its importance as a part of Scotland's national heritage was recognised increasingly from the early 19th century onwards, and various restoration programmes have been carried out over the past century and a half. As one of the most important strongholds in the Kingdom of Scotland, Edinburgh Castle was involved in many historical conflicts from the Wars of Scottish Independence in the 14th century to the Jacobite Rising of 1745. It has been besieged, both successfully and unsuccessfully, on several occasions.

Few of the present buildings pre-date the Lang Siege of the 16th century, when the medieval defences were largely destroyed by artillery bombardment. The most notable exceptions are St Margaret's Chapel from the early 12th century, which is regarded as the oldest building in Edinburgh,  the Royal Palace and the early 16th century Great Hall, although the interiors have been much altered from the mid-Victorian period onwards. The castle also houses the Scottish regalia, known as the Honours of Scotland and is the site of the Scottish National War Memorial and the National War Museum of Scotland. The British Army is still responsible for some parts of the castle, although its presence is now largely ceremonial and administrative. Some of the castle buildings house regimental museums which contribute to its presentation as a tourist attraction.

The castle is in the care of Historic Scotland and is Scotland's most-visited paid tourist attraction, with over 1.2 million visitors in 2011.  As the backdrop to the Edinburgh Military Tattoo during the annual Edinburgh International Festival the castle has become a recognisable symbol of Edinburgh and of Scotland.

To the right of the entrance is a plaque commemorating the beginnings of Nova Scotia.

William Alexander was the son of Alexander of Menstrie and Marion, daughter of an Allan Couttie. As a young man William became tutor to the Earl of Argyll and accompanied him abroad. At a later date he received the place of Gentleman Usher to Prince Charles, son of James VI of Scotland, and continued in favour at court after Prince Charles became Charles I of England in 1625. He built a reputation as a poet and writer of rhymed tragedies, and assisted King James I and VI in preparing the metrical version known as "The Psalms of King David, translated by King James" and published by authority of Charles I. James knighted him in 1609 and appointed him the Master of Requests for Scotland in 1614, effectively his private secretary. In 1615 he was made a member of the Scottish Privy Council.

In 1621, King James I granted William a royal charter appointing him mayor of a vast territory which was enlarged into a lordship and barony of Nova Scotia (New Scotland); the area now known as Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and part of the northern United States. The creation of Baronets of Nova Scotia was used to settle the plantation of the new province. He was appointed Secretary for Scotland in 1626 and held that office for the rest of his life.

Lord Stirling’s efforts at colonisation were less successful, at least in monetary terms. He briefly established a Scottish settlement at Port Royal, Nova Scotia, led by his son William Alexander (the younger). However the effort cost him most of his fortune, and when the region—now Canada's three Maritime Provinces and the state of Maine—was returned to France in 1632, it was lost. He spent his later years with limited means, and died in London on 12 September 1640. However Alexander's settlement provided the basis for British claims to Nova Scotia and his baronets provided the Coat of arms of Nova Scotia and Flag of Nova Scotia which are still in use today.

WHEW! We head back to grab a wee dram at a pub on the way home and a chance to relax.

We find the fabulous Theatre Royal Bar. Set in the Edinburgh's theatrical heartland, they've been serving food and drinks for decades. Situated on Greenside place, next door to the famous Playhouse theatre, they're at the heart of the action for pre- and post-theatre drinks, cuisine and socialising.

Finally home.

Ancestral Rock & Roam - Arrive Edinburgh - November 2nd

Day 2 - Calgary to Edinburgh

We depart Calgary in a snow storm on KLM following a botched attempt to de-ice the wings in the late afternoon of November 1st. We are now more than one hour late and in danger of missing the connection in Amsterdam to Edinburgh. Luckily the ground staff in Amsterdam are as efficient as those in Calgary and the flight is delayed allowing us to make the connection. We arrive in Edinburgh none the worse for wear and ready to enjoy Scotland.

A short taxi ride deposits us at the home of Shanda Doherty,

daughter of Nora Stewart and step-daughter of Donn Lovett where we spend the evening relaxing and visiting with the local politico Hamish Matheson. Hamish was a 'No' side supporter in the recent referendum and well published writer during the campaign, a sample of his writing follows;

Sir, For a while it looked like this might be different, but sadly Thursday’s decision seems to be coming back to the usual political choice of whom we distrust the least. From Westminster we have the “Vow” of more powers and from the SNP indignation that anyone might question the economic viability of the “land of Adam Smith”. Going with what seems a reasonable assumption; that Scotland can be successful either independent or in a federal Britain we are left with a leap of faith in one direction or the other based on whose utopian vision of our future is most likely to be untrue. For Westminster’s part we have definitely been let down before. Alex Salmond referenced Nick Clegg’s broken promise on tuition fees. The very man who is now asking us to trust him again. But that time he was the smaller party entering negotiations with a larger party who held the opposite position. Agreement of the 3 main UK parties is unprecedented in my lifetime. For the Alec Salmond’s part, Alan Greenspan has described his economic forecasts as being “so implausible they should really be dismissed out of hand”. Let’s take it as read that they are both smart men, so the question becomes; which is the more reliable? One, as the retired chairman of the US Federal Reserve, has no obvious reason for bias in the question of Scotland’s independence. The other has dedicated his career to driving a political agenda.

Hamish Matheson

Ancestral Rock & Roam - Depart Calgary for Edinburgh - November 1st

Hello,

We are the Ancestral Rock & Roamers. Two old dudes traveling across Scotland with a simple plan, curiosity and a love of our Scottish heritage. We will be looking to enjoy ourselves in as many pubs with live music that we can find, scotch in hand. However, there is a serious side to this excursion as explained below.

Enjoy the Blog.

Who are we?

Randy MacLeod, President of the Associated Clan MacLeod Societies of Alberta and Donn Lovett, a descendant of Lord Lovat and a member of the Fraser Clan.

The Associated Clan MacLeod Societies from around the world are coming together to support 'The Clan MacLeod Woodland Project and Memorial Wall' on the Orbost Estate on the Isle of Skye in Scotland (http://www.clanmacleod.org/acms-committees/alasdair-crotach-committee/clan-macleod-woodlands.html). The project will encompass 2.5 hectares of Rowan and Birch trees in a remnant gorge woodland and will re-establish an historic wildlife corridor.

Further, there will be constructed a 'Memorial Wall" comprised of stones from MacLeods all over the world.

We have combined the Scottish Homeland celebration with ancestral roots research and  will bring two stones from the original site of Fort MacLeod in Southern Alberta, Canada, named after Col. James F. Macleod, first commander of the North West Mounted Police (NWMP) and a major force in the development of Southern Alberta. We had these stones engraved and will present them for incorporation in the 'Memorial Wall'. 

We also want to state that the Associated Clan MacLeod Societies were quite active in the development of the NWMP Barracks Site in the Town of Fort MacLeod, Alberta, Canada.

The Premier of the Province of Alberta has given us a letter to pass to the 'The Clan MacLeod Woodland Project and Memorial Wall' for their records. 

Surprise, Surprise, Surprise, City Approves Cycle Tracks

To the surprise of no one Calgary City Council has approved downtown cycle tracks, albeit in a slim 8-7 vote. So let's examine some of what happened and some of the outcomes from that debate and vote.

First and let's be fair, the Mayor and I do not see eye-to-eye on a number of issues. In this matter 'His Purpleness' acted like the school yard bully. Showing up at meetings on Committees where he usually doesn't sit, interrupting the agenda to push his position and using his messenger, the Ward 8 Councillor to run errands for him. All the while playing to his urban hipster crowd led by Chris Turner and others. Wooley fits nicely into that space having worked for Chris Turner and the Green Party in the previous Calgary Centre by-election. Where the Mayor voted was of no surprise to this scribe.

Next, let's look at the 'Inner-City Four; Farrell (Ward 7), Wooley (Ward 8), Carra (Ward 9) and Pincott (Ward 11). No surprises here, they look to 'His Purpleness' for their marching orders and away they go, representing the views of their constituents, not likely.

Then we have the fiscal conservative Councillors; Sutherland (Ward 1), Magliocca (Ward  2), Stevenson (Ward 3), Chu (Ward 4). Jones (Ward 5). Colley-Urguhart (Ward 13) and Demong (Ward 14). City Administration did not make a strong enough case for this group to vote in favour. A number of issues came into play but mostly Administration could not adequately answer questions around the cost. These folks represented the views of their voting public who did not support the expense and the plan for separated cycle tracks in the downtown core.

The foregoing was easy to explain, now let's look at the supposed anomalies.

Keating (Ward 12); Not really a surprise 'His Purpleness' brought him in line with the promised public transportation plan for the SE. This will be enough for Keating to support the Mayor on most projects for the foreseeable future. His support has no other explanation since voters in Ward 12 do not appear to support the decision to spend tax dollars on separated cycle tracks in the downtown. Their concern is getting to work, parking when they get there and having a Councillor vote prudently on any City expenditure. That did not happen with this vote. If Ward 12 voters feel differently than I expressed please let me know.

Pootmans (Ward 6); Lest we not be surprised by his support for 'His Purpleness', Pootmans tries to show himself to be a fiscal conservative, the representation people in Ward 6 expect and believed they voted for, but the reality is Pootmans could very easily become a member of the 'Inner-City Four' when it comes to his voting record. He was one of the Councilors who dabbled with a ban on shark fin soup prior to the last election. A move that wasted tax dollars, pitted Council against Chinatown and was very much outside of any municipal jurisdiction. The attempted shark fin soup ban was led by Pincott and Farrell, blindly supported by Carra and Pootmans. Wooley was not at Council at the time. Again, if Ward 6 voters feel differently than I suggest please let me know.

Chabot (Ward 10); This is the only so-called surprise and the vote needed to get the cycle track programme in place. Chabot has been the Councillor most informed and ready for Council Meetings. He has always displayed himself to be a fiscal conservative. What happened?

Chabot has aspirations for the Mayor's chair once 'His Purpleness' rides off into the sunset to Harvard or the U of T to tell us how to be better urban citizens.

In this case, I believe Chabot made a significant political misstep. He appears to have abandoned his fiscal conservative principles in favour of an attempt to garner support from the urban hipster crowd. He must have been torn since his apparent change of heart seems to have come at Transportation Committee prior to yesterday's Council vote. In fact, for several months his staff have been posting on Facebook mentions that they will enjoy the cycle tracks well in advance of Chabot's vote.

Bottom line, this flip/flop may come back to haunt Chabot in the next election, time will tell.

Last evening I was bombarded by the Bike Calgary crowd for having had the audacity to help Chinatown in their opposition to the 1st Street SE cycle track. That's partly why I'm writing this today. They suggested we were conspiracy theorists and nay-sayers. I want to go on the record to say that the folks in Chinatown passionately love their space and this battle was not taken on without serious and thoughtful consideration for the impact on all Calgarians. Do not disregard Chinatown in the future when decisions like the cycle track and its impacts are discussed. This is a particular warning to the Councillor supposedly responsible for Chinatown.

The next steps are not so clear.

We are waiting for accurate costs for the cycle track network. We also want to see the criteria for measuring success or failure during the one-year trial.

I wonder what Bike Calgary thinks that criteria should be.

Nenshi Fiddles While Calgary Burns

I'm in Playa del Carmen, watching what's going on in Calgary from the tragedy of the useless killings of the University students to the death of the young man test driving a motorcycle.

The murders will play out in the media and cause untold misery to all of the families involved and for that, having lost my 7 year old grandson last March, I am so terribly sorry.

The death of the young man on the motorcycle raises a number of questions in my mind, currently somewhat fuzzy from tequila and cerveza.

I have to write this, asking for comment and response because I am concerned we are going to suffer more of these incidents.

WHY?

Because Council has said they will not spend the necessary funds to clean the enormous amount of gravel deposited on our streets by City crews during the winter months. All reports list a cause of the unfortunate accident as the amount of gravel on the streets where he was driving.

Here is where this is going;

The Inner-City Four, Councillors Farrell, Wooley, Carra and Pincott appear to live in a world that the vast majority of Calgarians do not. Nor do we want these folks spending our tax dollars creating this imaginary world. Albeit, they do these things at the behest of "His Purpleness", the Mayor.

Last year they wasted our time and money trying to ban shark fin soup, a ridiculous move entirely outside of their jurisdiction and in opposition to the existing laws of Canada. Nonetheless, our tax dollars were spent on this useless endeavor.

Now we have the the 'Cycle Tracks', unwanted by a large majority of Calgarians, but again being forced through Council yet again against our wills. Depending on who talks within Council or City Administration, the 'Cycle Tracks' will cost $9 million, $15 million or $22 million, not including maintenance, cleaning, snow removal, etc...

It doesn't take much thought to suggest we should use these tax dollars for the safety of the public rather than building 'Cycle Tracks' that a majority, including large numbers of people who ride bikes to work every day, do not want.

Do we need more accidents and possible deaths because of the unsafe condition of the existing streets to prove the lunacy of the 'Cycle Track' expenditure?

We know 'His Purpleness' has a problem convincing us the expenditure is a good one when he needs to show up at the Transportation Committee to try to sell the project on a trial basis.

Hell, even Stantec, the Consultant hired to sell us the 'Cycle Tracks' has written a report for the City of Vancouver saying the 'Cycle Track' project there was a failure. I have a copy of both reports for those that want to read them.

We can only trust that the majority of Council will realize we do not want our money wasted this way. Take it and clean our streets, make them safe for bike traffic as they stand, get rid of the gravel!

Calgarians are watching this vote, watching those that want to be Mayor one day, watching those who will vote to waste our tax dollars on the wishes of 'His Purpleness' and the 'Inner-City Four'.

We all get to vote again!

BEWARE!

Alberta PC Leadership - A 'Magical Mystery Tour'

Let me take you back in time in our lovely country called Canada; A time when British Columbia was called ‘La La Land’; A time when it was not conceivable that a woman could be the Premier of Alberta; A time far, far away, no wait, that was only a couple of years ago.

Since then, Alberta has assumed the mantle of ‘La La Land’, what with all the shenanigans that have taken place here with provincial politics. A woman did become Premier and from the beginning was under stress from her own caucus, the media and subsequently her Party. However, let’s not forget she added fuel to the fire with mishandled communications related to her personal behavior, but all in all, the Province ran rather well during her tenure from this person’s perspective.

Having said that, we are at a time, given the past few years, where we are allowed to think in more radical terms than the hum drum when it comes to politics, leaders and the future of Alberta.

So let me take you on a ‘Magical Mystery Tour’, grab your wine, pack your medical marijuana or use your free spirit to carry you along. I want you to open your mind, close your eyes and free your imagination. Are we ready? Here we go

First stop, the PC Party of Alberta, not a place for the feint of heart. The knives are out, not ready to be sheathed, recently used to destroy their old Premier, they flounder around seeking the Messiah. It’s quickly understood that no one within the caucus could possibly run, given the infighting and mistrust that exists within the Party and with Albertans in general. Outsiders being considered have all said no, are unlikely to run and/or cannot garner the support required to win.

Wait, I spoke too soon, on the horizon there appears a large man riding high in the saddle, coming towards us in a purple cloud of dust, a dark man with a toothy grin, can he be the Messiah they are looking for? We stop, consume our wine, our medical marijuana, induce our free spirit, open our imagination and seek a sign. After hours of machinations, dancing, singing, after all we are a fun group, we see a sign. A message being passed to all City Councilors at the City of Calgary advising Members an announcement will be coming in the next 7 to 10 days, they are advised to stay tuned but prepare for a major change.

Through our hallucinations, we see the future unfold as follows;

The large man with the toothy grin will announce his intention to seek the Leadership of the P C Party of Alberta. Initially, we find this to be an absurd notion, how can the Mayor of Calgary possibly become the Premier of Alberta? But we are on a ‘Magical Mystery Tour’, so we allow our senses to run away with us. The big question for the large man; Will the people of Alberta give him the adoring looks and unquestioned support the loyal citizens of Calgary afforded him these past 2 elections.

The move will free up the young man standing beside him to seek office on his own albeit at the higher level of Federal politics. Again, we are taken by the notion that the Chief of Staff of the Mayor of Calgary could possibly run for public office.

An older, wiser person on the ‘Tour’ reminds us of the Calgary Buffalo by-election in 1992 when the illustrious Rod Love, former Chief of Staff to Mayor Ralph Klein ran and came a distant 3rd against Gary Dickson. This was soon after the unfortunate death of Sheldon Chumir. It is believed that Rod is still holding onto his rear end that was handed to him by the well organized campaign. We trust this young man will fare significantly better than Mr. Love when he seeks the nomination in the Federal Riding of Calgary Centre in support of the Dauphin, JT.

Finally, we see a shorter, earnest young man with little hair encouraged by the events; He has visions of sugar plums dancing in his head. He is a fiscal conservative, holds the interest of the citizens in good stead and believes he has the ‘stuff’ to be the next Mayor of Calgary.

We begin to come out of our induced states of altered consciousness and wonder was this all a dream, what do you think?